Page 24 - C.A.L.L. #47 - Winter 2020/2021
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A pleasant surprise
Jan Martin Bang
Nazareth Illit in the Galilee, Northern Israel, is not even remotely a fancy town full of
Biblical sights and experiences. To such an extent that a couple of years ago the authorities
decided to rename it Nof HaGalil, “A view of the Galilee”, a pathetic effort to upgrade the
place. Below this collection of concrete buildings that have seen better days, lies the Biblical
city of Nazareth, well known in Christian culture as the place where Jesus grew up, and still a
popular destination for pilgrims and tourists.
The city on the hill is a mixture of very different ethnic groups, most of them situated in
the lower strata of Israeli society. Russian immigrants, not entirely successfully integrated,
Arab communities, both Christian and Moslem, struggling to make ends meet, poor people
surrounded by stained concrete. Neighbourhoods living in poverty, their income largely based
on government support of various kinds. Inefficient local government that struggles to clear
the garbage from the streets does not create an attractive first impression.
I arrive in order to visit Mishol, an urban inner city kibbutz. Inspired by the traditional
village kibbutz community, urban kibbutzim are meeting the needs of 21st century cities.
Instead of settling the country and defining its borders, these urban collectives do social
work and teaching within the poorest cities and towns all over Israel.
Due to the chaotic nature of life
in Israel, next morning I find
myself in a local neighbourhood
school, celebrating “The festival
of festivals”. Hundreds of people
in the school sports hall, crackling
microphones and loudspeakers.
Crowded, buzzing with
excitement, the kids are dressed
up in all kinds of costumes, class
by class. The youngest are in the
first grade, six year olds and full
of themselves.
On the back wall there are decorations. I see a big Father Christmas, in his red and white
costume, lacking reindeer, but with a sled - at least that. Totally incongruous here in the
Galilee. It’s also the Jewish festival of Hanukkah, the festival of light, when traditionally an
8 armed candlestick is lit every day for 8 days. There is a picture of that on the back wall
too and other symbols of the festival. There is also a green crescent and other symbols from
the Moslem tradition.
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